Ria Bacon: editor & writer

Linguist with wanderlust,
From the hills of New Guinea to the halls of the Sorbonne,
From the beaches of Bassam to the fields of Friesland,
From the catacombs of Rome to the Blue Mountains of Jamaica.
From the heather of the Veluwe to the dust of Dakar ...

Currently resident in the Land of Sea with a small tribe of kids and Mr B.

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A tale of two dumps

The first is Martin’s Hill dump, two miles outside Mandeville, in central Jamaica; the reason is the grisly week-long search over Christmas by police searching for the remains of the elderly couple, Richard and Julia Lyn, missing from their Mandeville home since 10 December. Sadly on New Year’s Eve, two corpses were found.

The case has had an unusual amount of media attention for two reasons: first, the couple were so obviously not linked to any criminal activities or associates, and second, it occurred in a town most often qualified as “sleepy” by lazy journalists. True enough, it is, or was, a very pleasant place, popular with returnees seeking the cooler, wetter, more English weather to which they had become acclimatized while working “a farrin”. The combination of these two reasons strikes even greater fear into the minds of many Jamaicans — after all, if an elderly, inconspicuous couple in a country town get murdered, who’s to say I’m not next?

Babylon burning

Riverton landfill on fire
The second dump is closer to home: the Riverton landfill in southwest Kingston, burning for over a week now, allegedly the result of scavengers looking for scrap metal. In this respect, the landfill is the inheritor of the infamous “Dungle” dump of West Kingston that was a source of income to generations of recyclers, and around which rose Jamaica’s homegrown religion: rastafarianism.

The scent of collie weed has been replaced these last few days by foul smelling smoke that covered most of West Kingston and blew northwards to us hillhuggers. Think of burning rubber and plastic, and you’ll have an idea of the smell. Sinusitis is already a surprisingly common illness in Jamaica, and those sufferers under the cloud have had an extra miserable time this week.

According to the landfill management, the fires were put out the same night they were started, that is, one week ago … so how come there’s still so much smoke?! And while it may be my first experience of Riverton burning, it is apparently quite a regular occurrence (Read more …).

Just below where I took the photo of the burning landfill, I chatted to a local resident. He was twirling his machete and listening to “Perkins Online”, my favourite among the many great Jamaican procrastinators. Perkins’ stand-in was lamenting the spike in violence since the beginning of the year; by the end of today, there have been 20 26 murders in the last four days.

Shack, Armour Heights

I remarked to the man that the smoke was still pretty bad, but he disagreed, saying that yesterday had been worse.

My feeling is that he’s just become used to it and no longer notices the cloud hanging over him. The same could be said of many other unacceptable conditions here.

P.S. I am a diehard optimist!

Related posts:

  1. Up where the air is clean
  2. Jamaica rundown
  3. Direction: Downtown
  4. If you go down to Spanish Town
  5. Via Crucis
  • Pingback: Global Voices Online » Blog Archive » Jamaica: Two landfills

  • http://rafjam.blogspirit.com/ Rafjam

    English fog from Port-Royal to Newcastle… everything happens in Jamaica!

  • Pingback: irie.mobi » Jamaica: Two landfills

  • Pingback: Stet » Blog Archive » Up where the air is clean

  • http://www.bodypillowdirect.com Body Pillow ·

    i really hate sinusitis, the feeling of having a stuffy nose and headache is really annoying ~

  • http://hotchristmasgiftideas.com/kidkraftpinkretrokitchenandrefrigeratorreview Sammie

    I was in the Riverton landfill region a few weeks ago. You’re right to say the place is a dump, I’m surprised the residents of the area don’t seem to be complaining. I suppose when you live in a particular environment you grow accustomed to it. So although Riverton may seem like a dump to a guy coming from LA, to the Riverton folk it seems no different to what LA seems to me.

  • Bruce

    hey man I was at that landfil, it stunk! That smoke was all over the place man, I didn’t know what to do, seemed to be choking everyone around me. I called the firebrigade but they told me they was on strike, lol what a waste of space. It just kept burning and burning and burning for what seemed like forever! Now aint that a bummer? win free iphone