Stet » Senegal

Slow on the uptake

Ria — Wed, 06 Jan 2010 22:58:02 +0000

The TV was on late this evening, muted and ignored, until I noticed a series of clips showing motorbikes, cars and trucks trying to drive at high speed up sand dunes before getting stuck halfway up or on the crest. The bikes’ wheels spun sand jets vertically, while the trucks slid and rolled like beached

Continue reading Slow on the uptake

Clean your teeth, purify your soul

Ria — Sat, 14 Mar 2009 00:15:31 +0000

Throughout the year in Senegal, but especially during Ramadan, the traditional toothpick, the sothiou, can be seen in almost every mouth. In addition to cleaning your teeth and freshening your breath, it is also seen as a sign of piety, distracting you from the evils of smoking, keeping your mouth pure for prayer time, and

Continue reading Clean your teeth, purify your soul

Mbour Mblues on the Coke Coast

Ria — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 10:11:15 +0000

Name that tune …

Hey Jim, Jim? Where is Jim, man? Jim, I want you to tell me somethin’ I want you to spell for me New York, Jim Come on, Jim, I want you to spell New York

These days you could ask Jim how to spell Dakar, because a whole lot, whole lot

Continue reading Mbour Mblues on the Coke Coast

I feel like Donald Trump

Ria — Sat, 10 Jan 2009 01:30:22 +0000

My cellphone runs flat each day. The battery is fine; it wears out because I spend most of my waking hours with the phone pressed close to my ear. Callers always seem to be surrounded by fighting couples with screaming children, stuck in heavy traffic outside a mosque with a new 5000W PA from the

Continue reading I feel like Donald Trump

Tabaski

Ria — Tue, 09 Dec 2008 00:48:20 +0000

Today is the most important national holiday in Senegal, Tabaski, the Wolof word for the Festival of the Sheep, known elsewhere in the Muslim world as Aïd-el-Kebir. It is a celebration of an event that is also important to Jews and Christians, that is, the sacrifice by Abraham (Ibrahim in Arabic) of his eldest son.

Continue reading Tabaski

Whiteout

Ria — Thu, 13 Nov 2008 00:22:04 +0000

The reaction anticipated in my previous post was swift and effective … actually it was glossy.

I had expected a different reaction — crude spray scribble, as had been done (by the PPK sprayers?) to the “NOUVEAU PARTI” graffiti, perhaps, or a riposte in words — but this whiteout is so … thorough and professional.

Continue reading Whiteout

The son still rises

Ria — Wed, 12 Nov 2008 01:08:06 +0000

On the same day that the leader of the National Assembly, Macky Sall, was voted out of office, a rash of graffiti appeared around Dakar — just three cryptic letters: PPK.

Fortunately, one sprayer had had the time, or the couilles, to write out the meaning: Pourquoi pas Karim (why not Karim).

The Karim

Continue reading The son still rises

Let them eat stats

Ria — Thu, 30 Oct 2008 01:29:21 +0000

Back in April, Senegalese President Abdoulaye Wade announced his latest new plan to revitalize the country’s agricultural sector, the largest sector of activity in terms of employment and production. It was the third plan in as many years. Previous plans, Jaxaay and Reva, were announced with similar fanfare yet failed to materialize into any actual

Continue reading Let them eat stats

To the barricades, James, and don’t spare the Porsches!

Ria — Thu, 16 Oct 2008 00:35:19 +0000

A few days after my previous post, residents of Dakar suburbs, Castors, Derklé and Liberté 06, took to the streets to protest against the prolonged and repeated electricity cuts. Actually, what pushed them over the edge was the distribution of double invoices from the electricity company, SENELEC. Yes, we give you no power and charge

Continue reading To the barricades, James, and don’t spare the Porsches!

30 hours: a new record

Ria — Fri, 03 Oct 2008 23:20:52 +0000

30 hours without electricity. A new record. Not happy. No. Not sleep much in the heat and darkness, wondering if the kids are OK …

I’ve walked down to the Shell station twice in the last 24 hours, going down to fill my jerry cans with petrol for my thirsty little generator. I only fill

Continue reading 30 hours: a new record