Tiger, Tiger

Tiger, Tiger

Blond-haired Dutch boy celebrating his fifth birthday.

Clean your teeth, purify your soul

Sothiou salesmanThroughout the year in Senegal, but especially during Ramadan, the traditional toothpick, the sothiou, can be seen in almost every mouth. In addition to cleaning your teeth and freshening your breath, it is also seen as a sign of piety, distracting you from the evils of smoking, keeping your mouth pure for prayer time, and fooling your stomach by chewing something during the fast period.

Just as with the baffling range of toothbrush technologies in the north, so in West Africa there are different twigs for different folks. There’s the Saudi “siwak”, highly prized for its pain-killing effect; the myrobalan, tamarinier, cola, or my favourite, the “mate xewel” (meaning “bite your luck” in Wolof), which will supposedly attract money to its masticator. During Ramadan, however, the “nep nep” is king. One young salesman explained,

It’s the dryest one. It doesn’t make you salivate too much. It prevents bad breath, treats toothache, calms irritated gums and heals infections with its antibiotic power.”

With these claims and a price tag of only a few cents, the big toothbrush manufacturers should take note.

But take note: they don’t come in day-glo green, orange or pink.

You can see a sothiou in action in a picture I took previously.

The Korité Kid

Those who imagine the Muslim world to be a single unified block of believers might be surprised that in just one West African country, Senegal, there are any number of different groups of Muslims, none of whom conform to the supposed hegemony of Saudi Wahhabism. In Senegal, as in many parts of Muslim Africa, Sufism dominates, with its devotion to local saints, whose images are painted on walls and reproduced in stickers on every taxi dashboard.

The four main Muslim groups in Senegal take the form of Brotherhoods: the Xaadir, the Tijaniyya, the Mourides and the Layènes. In addition, other more local marabouts, or Islamic teachers, can have a powerful influence over a given population.

An illustration of this diversity was evident this week with the end of Ramadan. The signal to end the month of fasting is the first sighting of the new moon. This can be a pretty hit-or-miss affair and can lead to quite a lot of confusion. Oustaz Abdou Aziz Kébé, Head of the Arabic Department at Cheikh Anta Diop University, Dakar, explained:

The meteorologists say that it is impossible to see the crescent moon because of the overcast sky. But that does not mean it has not appeared. It may appear in neighbouring countries, in Mali or Mauritania. If we refer to the four Schools of Hanafite, Malikite, Hanbalite and Chaféite, we can note that the first three […] accept that when the crescent moon appears somewhere, it is valid for all Muslims. Only the Chaféite School considers that each town must make its own sighting.

Thus for some, Ramadan ended yesterday; for most it was today, declared a national holiday by the Government.

One final confusion: the festival to mark the end of Ramadan is called Korité in Senegal, but is known elsewhere in the Muslim world as Aïd-el-fitr.

Whatever the differences in Brotherhoods, saints, schools of thought and moon sightings, all Muslims will agree that the end of Ramadan is an occasion to feast with your family, and, more importantly, wear your newly bought clothes.

This photo is of my neighbour, normally running barefoot in the sand, transformed today into an elegant young gentleman by his proud parents.

The reversed baseball cap was the boy’s own touch.

The Korité Kid


Business as usual

Business as usual
(click to enlarge)

North Street marks the top of the grid layout of downtown Kingston, running west from South Camp Road, where I took another photo recently.

Unlike the road to the cricket ground, used by visitors to the cricket world cup, North Road has literally been bypassed. The only sign of improvement is the bright yellow line on the kerb, probably painted by female residents paid for a single day’s work by a local caïd.

Now why’s that car parked by a yellow line?

Informal entrepreneurs

For those of you who don’t follow Jamaican news, one of the biggest scandals of the last few months was the revelation that the main supplier of cement to the country had released some 500 tons of inferior quality cement onto the market. Panicked by visions of collapsing buildings, the government ordered that the company cease distribution of cement until an investigation had been completed. The resulting shortage was catastrophic for the construction sector, with up to 30,000 workers threatened with temporary rendundancy. Because the cement company had benefitted from a quasi-monopoly on cement production, with preferential tax breaks, the government had a hard time getting supplies from other producers. It was a rare headline story that announced with jubilation the arrival of x amount of cement from Cuba.

It was also amusing to hear people sidling up to each other and whispering, “Got any stuff? I just need two bags.”

The crisis is pretty much over now, except for the opposition party calling for the minister in charge to be censured for his handling of the affair, largely because there’s little else they can do.

For others, however, more concrete (ahem) actions were needed, such as for these young entrepreneurs from the informal sector.

Cement thieves